Saturday, December 30
Best surf ever?
I may have said this already in the past, but this one was unreal. I was out at Chinamans beach with my uncle Ben and cousin Tim. The waves were clean and small but mostly too fast and closing out. After a few we decided to walk to the other end of the beach, to a point called Snapper. The closer we got the better it looked. Cause of the S-W winds, these waves were glassy and peeled nicely from the end of the point right onto the beach. We paddled out (which took a while but went quick due to what was on offer) and sat in the line-up. For the next 1-2 hours we caught wave after wave. Right hand walls, toes on the nose, smiles from ear to ear. It was amazing! No one out (for about an hour or so) and dolphins to keep us company. I must have caught me about 20 or so long rides, some right to the beach thanks to the fantastic 9’3 longboard I was surfing. This will remain in my mind as one of the best surfs I’ve had: great waves, great company, no crowds, dolphins and the knowledge that these great surfing times in Australia will be no more than great memories in the near future…
