Tuesday, April 19
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So I we were at Currumbin for my dad’s birthday, picnic, boules, French cricket and a swim/snorkel/surf. Though the surf was crowded as I managed to get a few nice long rides (the alley or shark alley at Currumbin is a superb point break). I was on the inside with the pig (my 50 year old 8ft mal) and I got a few very nice 2-4ft waves. I got on em half way down (the take off near the rocks was a bit hairy and fast) and surfed em til the next beach where they’d close out or die out. Bottoms turns, cut backs, hang five, almost a hang ten…ahhhhhhh longboards!
